Buying Your First EV?

What to Consider When Buying Your First Electric Car

First things first: Your budget!

You’ve finally decided to buy your first electric car (EV)! How exciting. Cost is likely to be a major factor in your decision making, regardless of whether you opt for a new or secondhand/preowned model, or whether you’re financing or buying outright. It’s not just the outlay that’s important when you make such a big purchase. You should understand the cost of the EV itself, along with any additional or associated expenses.

Let's look at the costs you’ll need to consider when buying an EV.

New vs. secondhand/preowned

Should you buy a brand-spanking new, or preloved EV? While there are pros and cons to each choice, knowing the basics of each can help you decide which option is best for your lifestyle, budget and needs.

New EV

If your budget allows for it, there are numerous benefits to buying a brand-new electric car.

Naturally, your new EV will come with full manufacturer warranty coverage from the date of purchase, and may include free scheduled maintenance for the first few years of ownership.

Newer models tend to benefit from the latest safety features and technology, improved battery performance and increased range. These are all great reasons to purchase new.

Secondhand EV

Purchasing a second-hand EV may be more cost-effective than buying a new car. It is possible that used EVs may have lower repair costs as any major issue are likely to have already been addressed by previous owners. Mind you, due to the hugely uncomplicated nature of EV technology and the vastly much tinier number of moving parts in electric cars, there are very few major issues with electric cars, so you’re generally safe in that regard.

• Pre-owned EVs typically are cheaper than their brand-new counterparts due to depreciation. However, it’s advisable to learn and understand the history of the vehicle before purchase so you can negotiate the best deal possible and avoid potential problems down the road.
• Research secondhand EV cars on the private market, from dealerships and also from online websites such as Carvana or Autotrader.

Type of vehicle

You might want to ask yourself, what type of car is best for you? A small city car, a hatch, a sedan, a family car, or perhaps a large SUV. Is the vehicle for recreational travel, such as camping, or more for daytrips in closer range? There are many different EV types out there.

Your considerations might include:

• the styling (look and feel),
• the number of seats,
• storage capacity,
• comfort or sportiness of handling (or both!),
• how high-tech the features are (i.e., the technical inclusions and driver assistance mechanisms, voice activation, the screens, infotainment systems),
• and other general facilities available to the driver and or passengers.

Once you determine your usage for the vehicle, you’ll be more able to make appropriately informed decisions about the car model you buy, battery size, and any additional features that may make your EV experience easier (also taking into account factors such as home charging hubs, or nearby public charging spots).

Different electric vehicles offer varied levels of performance depending on what kind of driving you intend to do. For example, a roadster might not be suitable for a family weekend away. And if long-distance driving is what appeals most to you, then look at electric SUVs with bigger batteries and bigger ranges; while these might come at a higher cost, they would offer more flexibility.

Should you buy a pure EV or one built on an existing ICE “platform”?

Many first-time EV buyers aren’t aware there are two ways to design and manufacture a pure battery EV (sometimes known as a BEV).

The manufacturer can repurpose an existing ICE car design by fitting in all the electric motor and battery parts into the same chassis. This may be a more cost-effective method and allows the manufacturer to offer up to three “versions” – ICE, full electric, and hybrid (see our article about hybrids for more info and our opinion).

The manufacturer can develop a bespoke “EV platform” from the ground up. With no need to fit in the combustion engine and drive train, nor allow for fuel storage and exhaust fumes, this liberates a huge amount of space. And as you’ll read further below, this can allow for all four wheels to be located further into each “corner” of the car, giving both a longer wheelbase (which means a comfier ride) and a LOT more potential cabin and/or trunk/boot space.

When a pure BEV platform is used, the manufacturer has a great deal more flexibility in how they position all the EV components.

This often leads to the so-called “skateboard design” where the battery is a large rectangle situated between the single or dual electric motors at either end of the car. Simple, and with the center of gravity and most of the mass located very low to the ground, this concept can provide a very comfortable and efficient ride.

One of the other benefits is the lack of a transmission tunnel (which still exists if the EV is built on an ICE platform), which means almost the entire area of the car’s floor can be made totally flat. It feels roomier and again, allows for far more flexible storage and feels way roomier for passengers.

We recommend testing both types so you can see the difference for yourself. New, pure-BEV designs are getting very innovative with a blank canvas on which to rethink car use!

Now let’s take a closer look at two of your most important physical considerations, passenger and storage capacity:

Passenger capacity

EVs—especially those built on a dedicated EV platform—tend to have more available internal space which will either be given over to more roomy seating or greater storage, or combination of both. Add to that the fact that the drivetrain does not need a central transmission tunnel, and the wheels of the car can be (and often are) moved further out towards the corners, and you have an overall formula for more cabin space.

Generally, the larger the car, the more passengers and cargo it will hold. Smaller cars will provide seating from two, to four or five adults, while larger cars are designed to comfortably fit minimum five, and up to seven or more people.

Each type of car will offer different levels of interior space and design. Always sit in both the front and rear seats to check how much legroom is available. Often forgotten is the space your feet take up in the rear seats. Your feet should comfortably find a spot slipping slightly under the seats in front. The most comfortable seats will support the back of the thighs (so the legs rest, rather than perch above the squab with a couple of inches of air).

Storage capacity

The more passengers an EV can carry, the less space there will be for items like groceries, camping gear or luggage. Larger cars tend to offer more cargo space than smaller cars.

A saloon that has large amounts of space for seating may compromise the availability behind the rear seats. While you will definitely gain more volume by folding down the back seats, do make sure you have sufficient space for everyday requirements when all seats are in position.

If you need more storage or passenger capacity, then an SUV or wagon may be the best solution. Additionally, consider your budget range and the available options within it.

A larger electric car will have heavier components, higher power needs and bigger battery packs and that will require more energy input to keep it running, in comparison to smaller models. On the other hand, some smaller cars can still offer longer ranges with smaller batteries and less horsepower as well as storing compactly in garages or parking spots.

At this stage of electric car development, you may find that the focus is more on practicality rather than luxury. It is a rapidly changing developmental landscape. Many vehicles are very space-efficient, especially inside. So too, you’ll find, that because there are no internal combustion engine (ICE) components to find places for, cars that are built on dedicated EV platforms have the option to push their wheels further towards the corners. EVs on the whole, feel very spacious internally… and as previously mentioned, there is no central transmission tunnel which adds to the available volume!

Do you choose rear-wheel drive (RWD), front-wheel drive (FWD) or all-wheel drive (AWD)?

RWD, FWD or AWD. It’s a decision you can make with any EV or petrol car. The main practical distinctions are these:

RWD and FWD have only one motor to drive either the rear or front wheels. Such a car:

• will weigh less (carry less componentry). An AWD will have a little more to carry around, but an AWD will have added performance (with faster time from 0 – 60 mph).
• will handle differently to an AWD. An AWD may feel more sure-footed in challenging driving conditions.
• will have less power available than an AWD (comparatively, but doesn’t mean RW and FWD are slow)
• may have added storage area capability because one less motor. You may have extra space in the Frunk or Trunk as a result.

Choosing and buying an EV does encourage you to make different—and I believe—more evolved considerations. Once you do decide, it’s time to look at how you’ll pay for it… with…

Financing options

When purchasing an electric vehicle (EV), it is important to consider the various financing options available to you, which include personal loans, lease agreements, and dealer financing.

Each type of financing carries different risks and benefits, so please carefully evaluate all your options before making your final decision. And remember, most states/countries require buyers to pay taxes, tags, registration fees and/or title transfer fees when purchasing an EV regardless of the type of loan used for purchase. Here are the broad brushstroke options:

Personal loans can provide you with the best overall terms:

Personal loans often require a higher down payment than other financing options.

Depending on your credit score and your lender, you may also be able to secure a better interest rate through a personal loan than with other types of financing.

Lease agreements are becoming increasingly popular for many buyers. They may offer certain advantages over other forms of financing:

Generally, leases have lower up-front costs.

Require monthly payments (instead of lump sum payments permitted with other arrangements).

Many lease providers may offer mileage or usage incentives or waive fees at the end if certain conditions are met.

Some tax jurisdictions may allow a greater write-off with a leased vehicle, or you may be able to secure a tax-efficient salary sacrifice arrangement

Dealer financing provides borrowers with access to rates based on the specific dealership’s current lending policies and incentives.

Dealer finance rates are usually higher than other types of loans

But there may be more flexibility in purchase decisions or waive fees associated with pre-payment or early return policies.

Affordability tends to improve with fixed interest rates or lease deals. Choose carefully and consider payments for the life of the car, or at least for the time you intend to keep the car.

Range

Range is one of the foremost factors to consider when you buy your first EV. Here are just some of the questions you can ask yourself to get you started on your quest:

• Will it be your only car?
• Will it have luxury appointments or be a utilitarian workhorse?
• Is it a second car, perhaps with toned down requirements? Can you manage with less storage, or less seating? Does it need the high-tech whizz-bang features of your main car?
• Will it be used for short distance trips, a city run-about, a commuter car? And so on.
• Will you need a car with a small or larger battery (to go the distance)?
• What is the minimum mileage that you would even consider? Given you can buy cars that have ranges from 60 – 500 miles (100 – 800 kms) per full charge, what will you mandate as your absolute minimum?
• Can you charge this car at home?
• Will you use the excess solar from your rooftop solar/PV system?
• Do you need to rely on the grid?
• What dedicated home-charger should I buy?
• If you cannot charge at home (at all) will you need a car capable of fast charging?
• Is the charging infrastructure (in my area and/or at home) sufficient for my needs?

Research the claimed (or stated) range of the car. Range is labelled as EPA, WLTP and NEDC. Each has its own margin of error. Compare apples with apples between vehicles. Keep in mind that these are tools that estimate range (probably under better conditions than the changeable you would encounter on a daily basis) and they generally overstate range by a significant margin. Just be consistent. Don’t compare WLTP of one car with EPA of another.

Battery Size

Battery size is expressed in terms of either kilowatt-hour (kWh) or ampere-hour (Ah). Every Battery Electric Vehicle (or BEV) has one and it’s important to choose the one that suits your needs.

The size of your battery determines how far your vehicle can travel before you need to recharge it. Besides battery size, the actual range of any car (petrol or BEV) may vary depending on driving style, terrain, load carried and weather.

Choose a car with an appropriate battery size to match your usage (whether short- or long-haul travel).

Battery sizes for everyday private electric vehicles tend to range from 24 kWh – 100 kWh (with an average somewhere around 40kWh). As time progresses, with current battery technology (with Li-ion and now in increasing use, Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries) most manufacturers market cars in two battery capacities: around 40 – 50 kWh and around 60 – 70 kWh.

Each vehicle brand supplies different battery sizes for the same model. In other words, you may have short- and long-range versions of exactly the same car. Sometimes the only difference is the battery size itself; less expensive version may have a 40kWh battery, and the performance version may sport a 78kWh battery which would double the range.

The easiest way to think of this is in old “fuel tank size” terms. It’s similar to if you were given a choice with an ICE car of fuel tank size options. A larger battery model version often has other attractive options such as sunroofs, more electrified options, heated seats and so on.

All this info is true at time of writing this article. We’re all eagerly watching the industry as battery technology rapidly evolves and introduces positive changes. For example, we’re sure to see more energy-dense batteries, that can be physically lighter and take a car even further.

Battery capacity degradation

Capacity of batteries tends to degrade over the life of the battery. With onboard analytics in all BEVs these days, you can determine the health of the battery, particularly in secondhand cars. But beware of scaremongering here: most modern batteries have robust warranties and warranty periods, and history is already showing that modern EV batteries may even outlast the car.

Larger battery, longer range

If you plan to use your car for more than just city driving, look for one with a larger battery to give you greater range.

Check out the warranty of the car. If the battery is not rated for at least five years to eight years under normal use conditions (as warranty terms differ amongst car brands), you may want to think carefully about the value you’d be getting from your spend.

EV batteries: When it comes to charging... Battery size doesn’t matter

All batteries are NOT the same. Charge times are dependent on different factors.

Charging speed is independent of battery size. Large batteries don’t necessarily charge faster. Naturally, a bigger battery, will take longer to charge. It’s MOST IMPORTANT you consider charging speed, size, and charging time.

There is, of course, some relationship between the size of your battery and how long it will take to charge. If you compare a 50kWh battery to a 75kWh battery and both are charging at the same speed, the 75kWh will always take longer.

Here’s an example that the charge time can vary independently of on the size of the battery:

A Porsche Taycan has a battery of 93.4 kWh. It can accept up to 11kW charge from a Level 2 AC charger. This can take just over 8 hours to go from 0% - 100% (something almost no EV owner ever does, by the way!). An onboard charger of 22kW capability is optional and would cut charge time by hours.

How big a battery is (its capacity) has little to do with how fast it charges. The speed an EV car’s battery will charge depends broadly on three factors:

The speed of the on-board charger (in your EV). This is measured in kilowatts hours (kW).

The power level of the charging equipment you connect to. This is typically referred to as “levels” where Level 1 is charging from a normal household AC 110v or 240v outlet, Level 2 would be a faster, but still AC power supply (often up to 22kW), and Level 3 is superfast DC charging, only found at the high-speed public charging networks (and ranging from 50kW up to 350kW)

The ambient temperature. Think of it as akin to the Goldilocks principle. The temp has to be ‘just right’. Your battery has a Battery Management System (BMS) and it wants to keep your battery in the right conditions. See definition below.

Practical charging tip:

If you’re in a hurry to charge as fast as you can (and this applies particularly when you charge at public chargers) then reduce any other battery demands. If you want your battery to charge more quickly, then make sure lights and air conditioning are off. Go grab a coffee, rather than sit in air-conditioned comfort with the music on!

Important concepts and definitions

There are many factors that affect your car’s and battery’s performance. Here are some concepts and definitions you need to be across.

Battery management system (BMS)

Your car’s BMS monitors and protects your battery from excess current, over-charging, or over-discharging by managing the electronics. Its aim is to safeguard the battery (and user) and keep the battery operating within safe and acceptable limits. For example, the BMS doesn’t like the battery to be too cold or too hot and will charge very slowly at temperature extremes. It’s not just ambient temperature (the climate) of where your car is, the temperature that results from high-speed DC charging at public chargers takes its toll. See below.

State of charge (SoC)

State of Charge or SOC is expressed as a percentage. The SoC at time of charging affects how long it will take to charge. The lower the SoC, the faster your car’s BMS might allow it to charge. If you are DC fast-charging at public chargers that have speeds upwards from 50kW, then your car’s Battery Management System may slow the rate of charge after it reaches 80% or more to preserve battery life. This does not happen with domestic home-chargers. Your battery life is better conserved even with frequent AC charging.

Loss of battery capacity over time

Over a period of years, batteries in EVs are said to deteriorate and have decreasing capacity. To help stem deterioration, it is advised that you prevent your battery from getting too hot by limiting the time you spend charging your car at super-high DC speeds. This usually happens if you often use high speed public charging infrastructure, at charge speeds over 150kW.

Your battery and charger both have voltage and current limits

Think of voltage as the force of the current (electron flow) to the battery. Voltage is the speed at which electrons can move from the charger to your car.

While current (or ampage) is the amount of power that can get into the battery. It is the number of electrons that can move at any one time.

Your charger has a specific capacity to deliver power.

And your battery has a specific capacity to receive current.

Super-fast charging explained

Just because you pull up to a fast charger, doesn’t mean your car will charge at the charger’s highest speed. The top limit is determined by your car. You need to know:

• your car’s specs – what type of charging port does it have? You may have an older car with a Type 1 connector (usually only in the US), or a CHAdeMO, or a CCS2 Type 2 connector. Most modern cars now use CCS2, which is the accepted global standard for EVs. CHAdeMO is an older standard that is still used predominantly in Nissan Leafs (but beware, there are fewer CHAdeMO public chargers, so more planning is required for longer journeys!)  
• and what maximum DC charge speed (in kW) your car will accept.

For example, if your car will only ever charge at maximum 64kW, then all high speed chargers whether 80, 100, 150, 250 and 350kW chargers will ALL charge at the same maximum rate of 64kW and no faster. There’s absolutely no advantage to choosing a ultra-speed charger, it won’t charge any quicker. In fact, it is polite (good EV etiquette!) not to occupy a high speed charger if your car cannot accept that rate and there are other chargers available (obviously if it’s the only charger available, this doesn’t apply). NOTE: in future, it’s likely that all chargers will be designed to run at a minimum standard 250kW charging speed.

A practical example

If your car has an 800 Volt architecture, it has the capability to charge at 800V. This is considered high voltage. If it can accept 300 Amps, then the charging speed would be 800 multiplied by 300 = 240,000 Watts or 240 kW.

Therefore, if your car only as a 400 Volt battery architecture, then for the same current, it would only charge at 120W.

Charging… there are two sides to every equation

There is no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to determining how fast any car will charge. You have to figure in the capability to charge fast, on both sides of the battery. If there’s a mismatch, then speed of charge will be compromised.

For example: A single car hooked up to charge at one of 10 super-fast chargers may receive up to 350W charging speed (DC). However, if all the chargers are charging 10 different cars at the same time, it is possible grid or network capacity may be shared or throttled amongst all 10 cars. Charging speed is theoretical and applies if all the conditions are right to achieve that rating. Think of it as the early days of the internet. When everybody was using it at once, the speed was slow for all.

Bottom line about batteries in your choice of EV

What’s going to influence you most, in choosing your first car, are your driving habits. And once you are conscious of your needs, you will factor in battery size, estimated range, charging speed, comfort, seating, capacity and more.

If you drive 50 miles (80km) per day, you may only need local charging (perhaps just trickle charging at home or place of work) to top up frequently. But if you’re a traveling salesperson, and you cover 800 miles per week away from home, you may want a car that charges as quickly as possible. And you’ll want public charging infrastructure to be robust and reliable.

Remember: You may not always need the car with the biggest battery. The bigger the battery, the heavier and less efficient it will be.

Short vs. long range

Which brings us to considering range. The range of an electric vehicle—how far the car is estimated to travel on a single battery charge—is expressed in kilometres or miles and is dependent on the battery size, the efficiency of the electric motors, and the car’s aerodynamics. Range varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, model to model and also depends on battery type.

As a general rule, short-range EVs have a capacity to travel up to 150 miles (230 km), whereas long-range EVs can travel up to 300+ miles (450+ km) due to their larger battery size.

You should choose a longer-range EV—one with a larger capacity battery—if you intend on longer distance travel or need more freedom and flexibility in the use of your car.

Factors outside of just the car’s specs also influence range

Speed, temperature, road conditions and even air-conditioning all affect range and need to be taken into account when selecting your EV option. If you intend to use your car with regular frequency (daily commuting, shopping, errands etc.) you may need to make sure you are able to charge at home.

All cars will charge from a power point at home, but the charge will be slow (might take far more than 12 hours to fully charge from 0%). If anything more than a ‘trickle charge’ at home is required to keep your car on the road, you will have to consider installing a faster AC charger or have reliable access to your local public charging infrastructure (whether that’s charging stations, or shopping centers). But trickle charging is perfect for those overnight topups, and is an extremely common practice among EV owners. You may not always need expensive or dedicated charging equipment!

If you’re unable to charge from excess solar power to your roof you will have to budget for charging (at home and at charging stations) just as you would have to reserve budget for petrol.

There are always costs of ownership of any vehicle. Once you explore your needs and consider your budget you can make an informed decision about purchasing either a short-range or long-range EV suitable for your lifestyle and intended use.

Where to charge

So, you have chosen a car based on range and battery capacity. Well done. But if you neglect to consider accessible charging infrastructure (whether public, private, at work or home) you could be left high and dry.

Here’s a surprising statistic: Most EVs are charged at home. Charging at home may often be as simple as plugging in to an existing wall outlet. This however, is the slowest way to charge and can take the whole day and night (if your battery is empty and you charge to full. Waiver: depends on your car and battery size 😉 ). To speed up the rate at which you can recharge your EV, seriously think about installing a dedicated outlet (that allows a bigger current, ie larger Amps) in or around your garage (or car space). Or you can invest in a wall ‘charger’.

NB: This is actually NOT a charger: the device itself (an EVSE) forms a bridge between your power supply and your car’s onboard charger. See below about your car’s onboard charger. To install a dedicated outlet, you’ll definitely need a qualified electrician.

Public chargers may also be available near your home (at petrol or charging stations and at shopping centers and supermarket car parks). Some chargers are strategically installed by businesses to attract customers, such as hotels, restaurants, or tourist destinations. Check if your place of work provides charge points. Charging infrastructure is growing rapidly and extensive networks are being built and expanded. Your choice of car may be influenced by your ability to charge and location.

Finding public chargers is easy:

Download charge apps for locations and facilitate charge transactions.

Download the Plugshare app. It lists all publicly available chargers worldwide.

Your car’s own GPS or mapping software will probably show you the closest chargers to your current location. At the touch of a screen, your navigation will take you right there.

A popular alternative app that also makes mapping easier (as it will try to determine your current energy consumption) is ABRP (A Better Route Planner) which as both free and paid versions.

To charge anywhere, you will have to ensure you have the right fittings. Standardization is improving but for the moment there are different plugs, so make sure you have compatible charging hardware and attachments. You will carry these in your trunk or frunk!

I strongly recommend joining an owner’s group for your vehicle to get tips and tricks for your car’s unique preferences – this can be extremely helpful!

But for those interested in the extra nitty gritty details of charging types, rather than overwhelming the prospective EV buyer here, I’ve written a more specialized article.

EV running costs

This is one area where EVs beat ICE cars hands down.

Let’s talk about “fuel consumption” to start with. EVs consume electricity, not gas/petrol. While electricity costs are far more varied than gas/petrol, most consumers will have access to cheap, or even free power. This may require some rethinking of your “filling up” habits, but all EV owners quickly discover ways to minimize their charging costs.

And now the big one: ongoing maintenance. The average ICE car has 1,000s of moving parts (over 1,000 in the engine alone). The average EV has around SEVEN – including the drivetrain.

Additionally, there are:

• No pistons, crankshafts, cams, valves, belts, spark plugs… the list goes on.
• No gearboxes.
• No exhaust systems or mufflers to replace.
• No expensive catalytic converters.
• No transmission tunnels or underbody provision for an exhaust pipe.
• And no oil to change.

And interestingly, EV owners will tell you that the brake pads and discs just don’t seem to wear out.

Why?

Because most EVs use regen functionality to help slow the car down. So as a result, the physical brakes are rarely used. I can tell you from experience that washing the wheels is vastly more enjoyable as there is literally no baked-on brake dust. Your front wheels in particular will always look clean!

So not only are you not buying gas, but you are also saving in consumables (mufflers, brake pads, timing belts, spark plugs etc) AND there is far less likelihood of one failed component leaving your stranded (eg a gearbox or clutch issue) since an EV doesn’t have any of the items that tend to do this in an ICE vehicle.

And electric motors themselves are inherently mor reliable, they’ve been around donkey’s years (longer than the combustion engine) and have evolved into having state-of-the-art reliablity.

EV warranties

Investigate what your warranty covers and the limitations of the warranty before you purchase an electric car. See what your warranty covers in terms of the battery, motor and other components. There will be a manufacturer warranty that may even be expressed in terms of two things: battery warranty (covering x number of years, often around 6-8 years) and car warranty, covering y number of years or so many thousands of miles (or kms). Typically, that will be 100,000 miles or 160,000 kms.

Battery warranty depends on location

Your battery warranty is based on a percentage level of battery capacity that is retained for the period of time your warranty covers. It may, for example, warrant your battery will stay over 70% capacity for 8 years.

US: The US federal government has legislated that manufacturers are required to offer an eight-year/100,000-mile warranty on all EV batteries. California goes an extra step and has mandated a warranty of 10 years or 150,000 miles.

Europe: Most manufacturers offer a battery warranty of 5 – 8 years and 160,000 km.

In other countries, such as Australia, the length of battery warranty is not legislated and can vary from 5 to 10 years.

EV batteries are the most crucial and expensive component and so many collective billions of dollars of research and development have been invested. You can expect that battery technology will evolve to create better, more energy dense, greater capacity, faster-charging batteries. Today’s technology is already impressive and tomorrow’s is extremely promising.

Can your car’s battery be replaced or fixed?

Though it is rare, the warranty is in place for a reason. Your EV’s battery is made up of hundreds of “cells” (think of it as a large collection of “AA” type batteries if it helps). Theoretically, if something fails, it may be only one bad cell and depending on the manufacturer, can be replaced under warranty.

Expensive full battery replacement is sometimes promoted by those opposed to EV adoption (and with a vested interested in legacy automobiles), but in actuality is so rare, it’s usually only done to very old electric cars as an upgrade.

In any event, in the average owner’s life car ownership, there will be no need to replace the battery as a matter of course.

As an aside, some car manufacturers have focused on battery-swapping functionality as a means to recharge – you rock up to a swap station and an automated system swaps your low SoC battery for a full one. Effectively this means you get a “new” battery each charge. Take a look in your country to see if this system is available yet.

Our opinion is that once battery tech becomes so light and high in energy-density, and once high-speed charging is super-high everywhere, this type of system will fall by the wayside.

In short: don’t worry about the battery. It’s unlikely it will ever need replacement and there is an entire industry springing up ready to take on the task of recycling scrapped EV componentry (including the battery) and repurposing or recycling it into a new use (as we progress toward a near-circular recycling economy).

Manufacturer warranty

Manufacturer warranties cover certain elements of the vehicle, such as powertrain components or electrical components. In most cases, these warranties cover the repair or replacement cost of defective parts and labor for a period of time after purchase, usually 36 to 48 months. The length of time may be determined by distance traveled.

Pay attention to warranty details, and explore all possible options before your purchase:

Warranties will not cover any repairs resulting from accidents caused by owner negligence or third-party incidents. Your insurance is the place for this.

Check whether special conditions apply, such as deductibles for certain repairs and if there are limitations on coverage for wear-and-tear problems over time

Extended service contracts may also provide supplemental warranty to cover additional underlying maintenance issues beyond normal manufacturer’s coverage. Such a contract would be purchased separately from car dealerships themselves

Extended warranty

Extended warranties can be purchased for both new and secondhand electric cars. As many electric car warranties are quite limited, these can offer additional peace of mind should something go wrong.

Electric car extended warranties typically include cover for major mechanical failures such as the motor, battery, charger and/or components and electrical control system. Many also offer roadside assistance and recovery, as well as free replacement of parts and access to home charging points where available.

Helpful tips for extended warranty protection:

• Do your market research.
• Product should suit the type of vehicle you own, where it’s located, and the mileage you usually travel on a full charge.
• Pay attention to any applicable caps per event that might occur. Your cover may not cover all expenses.
• Does coverage include breakdowns? Some policies may not cover this if you have driven your electric car outside its recommended parameters (e.g. long-distance journeys or too much miles on the clock).
• What’s the expiry of the policy? It may be 3 – 7 years after first registration.

Beware of profiteering so be sure to ask the opinion of existing owners.

Service and maintenance plans

As part of the warranty, most companies offer a fixed maintenance schedule and pricing to cover you for routine and expected maintenance issues. With so few moving parts in an EV compared with an ICE car, you will probably be more than pleasantly surprised at how little your EV will cost you to maintain.

By all accounts, your biggest expense is probably tires!